Interview with CDL Designer: Beth Esponnette 

by taylor.nieman 4 months ago

Say a little about yourself: [name, age, major]

Elizabeth (Beth) Esponnette, 22 years old, Fiber Science & Apparel Design

What is your line called?

Nomad

How many looks are there?

Nine looks, plus I wore my own design

What type of fabrics did you use?

A whole range! I was fortunate to receive technical fleece fabrics from Polartec for a lot of the jackets and nylon fabrics from W. L. Gore for a windbreaker and a few backpacks. I also bought a thick wool plaid knit for linings, spandex for skirts and pants, a light beige knit for most of the undershirts, and a four-ply crepe silk fabric for all ruffled pieces.

What inspired your line?

I was inspired by the concept of preparation. I admire people who are prepared for anything and everything. To me, the epitome of preparation is the ability to function and survive outside, namely in harsh conditions without shelter. I associate with people who are strong-willed and complain very little: the type of person with whom any backpacking excursion would be enjoyable. These friends of mine were the people that I envisioned wearing this clothing. I designed with their well-being and aesthetic in mind.

Where is the girl that's sporting your clothes going? [a club, hike, etc.]

Ideally, she's hiking/backpacking. There are a few looks from the line that would be better off frolicking in a field, but function is unfortunately sometimes sacrificed for aesthetic on the runway! All-in-all I worked hard to merge the two (function & aesthetic) into clothing that would be suitable either for everyday wear or for climbing mountains.

How long did it take to create your line?

I began designing the looks last fall and construction started in December. It took three months to make the line!

Did you have any setbacks?

I was forced to tote my sewing machine around the northeast with me throughout the semester because I was always off nordic ski racing with Cornell's team.

What inspired the hair styles of the models?

The people that I mentioned earlier that inspire me are strong and confident. I wanted the models to not only show their confidence through their movements, clothing and makeup, but also through the intensity of their hair. To me, the "mohawk buns" that each model wore symbolize a rejection for the norms of society. But they are not done distastefully. I feel like society should be rejected tastefully, which is how I hope the hair and my line came across. These girls want to ignore the unnatural world and immerse themselves in nature, but they don't want to be ugly or rude about it.

Who is the audience for this line that could be potential buyers?

I think the market for this line could be huge, considering a lot of the pieces are versatile from the indoors to outdoors. Women in the city who want protection in harsh conditions, yet still want a unique look would be interested in this line. And of course those who are interested in how they look (really, who isn't?) who are already shopping at outdoor wear stores like Patagonia, Columbia, and The North Face are potential buyers. I think that a line like this could bring spunk to the outdoors, but more importantly utility and function to everyday fashion.

How has CDL helped you as a designer through the years?

CDL has been an excellent way to showcase my designs to a larger audience than I would normally have through our department. It's always interesting to get feedback from people who haven't studied apparel because I'm so accustomed to hearing from experts and students with similar interests.

How did you feel to show your final collection at CDL last weekend?

I was so excited and ready for it. I have spent nearly four years rigorously studying apparel at Cornell and, although I have a mind full of knowledge about the field, it is nice to have a tangible piece to show for it. What made me even more excited was that my grandmother, my aunts, cousins and parents from all over the country attended the show!

Overall as a design student here at Cornell, what do you believe your greatest accomplishments have been?

My greatest accomplishments have centered around functional apparel. I am so interested in how clothing works, and especially how it works with the body. The biggest study that I have done thus far at Cornell involved firefighters and their turnout gear. Trying to understand the problems that firefighters are having with their clothing equipment has opened up my mind to what ideal protective equipment may entail.

What has been your favorite class?

That is a toughie! The class that was the most fun to go to was Professor Jirousek's Color and Surface Design of Textiles. It was completely hands-on and very experimental. The class that intrigued me the most and got me thinking more about what I would like to do in the future was Professor Hinestroza's Textiles, Apparel & Innovation. It showed me that it is hard to improve the world if you stay within the lines; you really need to challenge yourself to think differently in order to achieve substantial results.

Is there anything interesting that other students do not know about the FSAD department at Cornell?

There's plenty of interesting things that people don't know about the department! When I tell people things about what we do, I invariably hear moans of jealousy. It is likely because half of what we do is hands-on, whether patternmaking, draping, sewing, computing, sketching, bodyscanning, printing and dyeing or even burning and dissolving fibers. Even the non-hands-on learning is great because it ties in really well with the hands-on things that we do.

What are your plans for the future?

In the immediate future, I am hoping to work as a designer for an outdoor wear company. This job is perfect for me right now because of the focus on both function and aesthetics, as more and more people are incorporating outdoor wear into their everyday wardrobes. In the long haul, though, I would like to lead a "think tank" devoted to the concept of clothing. I think that how we dress ourselves is not questioned enough, and I believe that there are a million other ways to do so, some that could change the way we live for the better.

March 2010 USA Fashion Covers 

by taylor.nieman 5 months ago

Cover models from Left to Right:

American Bazaar: Kate Moss

American Glamour: Victoria Beckham

American Vogue: Tina Fey

American Teen Vogue: Mia Wasikowska

American W: Megan Fox

American Elle: Keira Knightley

CDL Fashion show 

by taylor.nieman 5 months ago

..

Photographed by Taylor Nieman... more to come soon

Feedbak 

by taylor.nieman 5 months ago

The diversity at Cornell University is endless; however, it is rare to hear about fashion groups around the campus. Thus, I am personally bringing to you the details of one of Cornell’s best kept fashion secret – Feedbak.

The summer of 2008 brought together two Applied Economics and Management (AEM) students, Mac Bishop and Jeff Aziakou. The duo shared an interest in the fashion industry. They wanted to transfer what they were learning in the classroom to real world experiences in the fashion industry. They reached out to the faculty of Cornell’s Fiber Science & Apparel Design (FSAD) department for advice. Professors Anita Racine, Susan Ashdown, and Van Dyk Lewis  were very receptive to the project and helped recruit the group’s original members. Five design students, who ranged from freshman to seniors, were selected.

Feedbak’s initial focus was to partner with apparel companies to provide market research  from the collegiate demographic. The organization’s first partner was Pendleton Woolen Mills. The Portland-based company sent the student organization a variety of  product samples. Feedbak organized focus groups and product testing sessions to gather opinions from Cornell students. The student designers also recommended technical modifications.

Inspired by  Pendleton’s samples, Feedbak began to originate innovative design concepts.  The group was able to negotiate a sponsorship deal with Pendleton Woolen Mills that allowed them to translate their ideas from sketch to runway production.  The organization grew to 11 students as additional members were brought on to assist with production.

This year, Feedbak was given the opportunity to work with adidas on one of their upcoming lines. This will also be the second time that it is creating a Pendleton sponsored capsule collection. Again, the organization benefits from a talented group of students who are responsible for design, production, as well as budgeting and marketing. This interdisciplinary collaborative atmosphere is particularly important to Mac and Jeff, as it reflects the nature of the industry.

Mac and Jeff explain that this year will be different from last. On the runway, one can look to see four complete head-to-toe menswear looks. The inspiration for the collection was described by Jeff as “aviators, explorers, and the military”. He furthered explained that their entire collection uses a mix of technical fabrics and Pendleton wool. The entire group is extremely excited to showcase their collection at the annual Cornell Design League (CDL) Fashion Show this Saturday evening. Mac and Jeff thought it would be appropriate to send a special thanks to all of Feedbak’s members for their hard work. Also, a special thanks to the  production team, Katie Elks and Jesse Ruoff who have  “turned the entire group’s designs and vision into a reality”.

The success of Feedbak has also enabled Mac to develop his own collection called NATIVE(X), a line inspired by indigenous tribes. He sells his limited edition pieces online through etsy and eBay. Mac attributes the line’s success to the learning experience he has had with Feedbak.

Jeff and Mac stressed the importance of Feedbak’s long-term sustainability even after they graduate, especially since Jeff is a senior and Mac is a junior. They are currently working on securing industry partnerships for next year. Whatever the future holds for Feedbak, it will definitely be a positive one.

Team Members
  • Jesse Ruoff
  • Katie Elks
  • Amelia Brown
  • Emily Parkinson
  • Beth Esponnette
  • Max Gengos
  • Harrison Tsai
  • Abbey Liebman
  • Isabelle Hochberg
  • Jeff Aziakou
  • Mac Bishop

**Written by Taylor Nieman, Edited by Jeff Aziakou and Mac Bishop

To my pleasant surprise, (not to be insulting, I'm just extremely impressed) the guys around the campus of Cornell have really good style! I'm really taken aback because looking back to my hometown in Los Angeles, California the guys are only always wearing their board shorts. And if on the slight chance they do actually decide to "dress-up"  they wear their board shorts with a T-shirt. Maybe that is a bit dramatic, but you get the picture. While on the other hand, here I'm always seeing boys in clothes that look like they just got off a Calvin Klein runway wearing very put together outfits and adding their own vintage items to spice things up. For instance, the Cornell student in this picture is wearing a uniquely colored jacket, which stuck out to me among the herds of students wearing North Face jackets.  You know those plain-boring jackets that EVERYONE in Cornell wears EVERYDAY. Not to be cynical or anything but my eyes get pretty bored just watching clones walk by, where is the inspiration?? This student definitely let my eyes breath and allowed me to continue to believe that I will find some of my fashion inspiration in others while on campus. The colorful jacket instantly reminded me of one of my favorite actors, Will Smith, back when he was in The Fresh Prince of Bel Air. The pops of color definitely give the jacket a vintage feel, and it was undoubtedly refreshing to see. Whether you like the jacket or not, it is undeniably interesting to look at. The bright colors also reminded me of Basso & Brooke’s Fall 2010 Collection that was recently presented in London. The designers’ (Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke) juxtaposition of all the shades of color definitely provoke whimsical emotions, which intrigues any viewer. Thus, their collection was undoubtedly a hit. “They drew their inspiration from traveling down the ancient Silk Road, which was once where the East met the West, for two weeks where they found endless patterns, shapes, textures, and colors” (Style.com). I hope to see many more people that are also inspired.

Chuac,

Taylor Nieman


taylor nieman